Shorten a simple fabric hem

Mark the finished edge first

This method suits a simple straight hem in woven fabric, such as a cloth or an uncomplicated garment. Lined pieces, strongly curved hems, and technical protective clothing need different treatment. Mark the new edge while the item sits or hangs as it will in use. For clothing, suitable shoes and another person can help establish an even line.

Compare several points rather than measuring only one side. An already crooked old hem is not a reliable starting reference. Decide on the new hem depth afterward. With a double turn of 1 cm plus 2 cm, the cutting line sits 3 cm below the intended finished edge.

Baste before shortening

Unpick the original hem carefully if it falls within the new area. Press the old crease only as the fabric permits. Needle marks or faded lines may remain visible, so inspect before cutting. A different hem depth can sometimes cover those marks without changing the desired final length.

Fold and baste the proposed hem, then check the length again on the body or in its intended location. The extra untrimmed fabric may feel bulky, but you can still judge where the edge falls. Only then cut along the marked cutting line. Keep the cloth flat rather than cutting freehand around a hanging item.

Sew an even double turn

Press the narrow first fold and then the wider second fold, checking its depth with a seam gauge. Stitch close to the inner folded edge without stretching the material. Existing side seams create thicker areas; slow down there and check that the needle catches every intended layer.

Remove basting and marking lines according to their instructions. Hang the item and inspect it from a little distance. Small waves may indicate tight stitching, while a tilted edge may trace back to the original marking. Correct the specific cause instead of shortening the whole item again. Keep a useful offcut for future repairs, labeled with the item it came from.